SPARKLERS
For almost two centuries, the sun has risen over
the beautiful hillside vineyards of upstate New York, illuminating the
placid, dewy vines, their leaves yellowing and their grapes turning
gold for the coming vintage. Sparkling wine has been one a mainstay
of the New York wine industry since before the Civil-War era, when some
of the top champagne-makers from France were recruited to the region
by local wineries. French winemakers like Jules Masson, Henri Roualet,
Albert Bricout and Jules Crance were hired by the Pleasant Valley Wine
Company, Germania Wine Cellars and other nineteenth century wine companies
to bring the classic winemaking methods of Champagne to the Finger Lakes.
The sparkling wine tradition was born in these early wineries, situated
in the hills around the town of Hammondsport at the southern end of
Kueka Lake. In 1863, the Pleasant Valley Winery shocked Europeans by
winning a gold medal at the Vienna Exposition for its Sparkling Catawba.
In 1867, French judges were stunned when another Finger Lakes sparkling
wine ranked among the best in a blind tasting at the Exposition Universale
in Paris.
Today, sparkling wines from New York represent some of
the best values in the world. They are intensely fragrant, with both
finesse and a lusty vitality, easily convincing that they belong right
there in the ring with Veuve-Clicquot and Moet. Most are made from blending
Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, the traditional grapes of
the Champagne region of France, while others are made from Riesling
and other varieties. Blanc de Blancs are exclusively Chardonnay, while
Blanc de Noirs are exclusively Pinot Noir. Methode champenoise refers
to the classic method for making sparkling wines, developed in France,
of bottling a blend (cuvée), of still wines with a specified
amount of yeast and sugar, to induce a secondary fermentation in the
bottle. This bottle fermentation is what puts the bubble in bubbly,
giving it that charming vivaciousness and rich, creamy character that
frolics on your palate.
CHARDONNAY
Chardonnay is a wine of many faces, with ripe, luscious styles
that explode on your palate with exotic tropical fruits, along
with more subtle, elegant versions that emphasize bright citrus
flavors and mineral nuances. Winemakers love Chardonnay for
its reliably high ripeness levels and its versatility. Its
homeland is Burgundy, where it makes everything from crisp,
tangy Chablis to rich, smoky Montrachet, but it is a truly
international variety. Dr. Konstantin Frank, one of New York's
vinifera pioneers, produced the state's first Chardonnay in
the Finger Lakes region in 1961. Since then, Chardonnay has
become the dominant white wine grape in the Finger Lakes and
on Long Island. Rather than try to imitate the rich, buttery
style of California Chardonnay, New York winemakers have sought
to define their own unique, individualistic styles that express
the spirit of each region with clarity, purity, ripe fruit
and elegance. And have done so with amazing success.
RIESLING
One of the world’s best food wines, Riesling may be
the loveliest of all white wine grapes in the world, if only
because of its longevity and its ability to transmit the unique
characteristics of the vineyard in which it is grown. Its
most striking characteristic is its intense floral perfume
reminiscent of a warm summer meadow bursting with wildflowers.
The grape was traditionally grown in Germany and Alsace, but
New York Riesling is a flower all its own. What makes it truly
unique is the mineral-rich, glacier-derived soils on which
it is grown. New York's Finger Lakes region is undoubtedly
producing some of the best Riesling in the United States,
where the ideal combination of cool climate and shale-based
soils combine to create Riesling with a firm and juicy palate
packed with luscious tropical fruits flavors and a distinct
mineral character. The finest Riesling can be positively incandescent,
with a pure jasmine blossom aroma that draws you into the
depth and richness of its inscrutable soul.
PINOT NOIR
Pinot Noir, the great red grape variety of Burgundy, "queen
of red grapes," is nothing short of pure nourishment
for the soul. Pinots have a pure and clear nature, with solid
structure and a transparent face that expresses an incredible
emotional character. Good Pinot can have an alluring perfume
of violets and cherry blossoms, an elegant vivacity and finesse
that lends the wine a kind of poetic beauty. It has lower
tannin levels than other red varieties, so it often takes
on a velvety softness unmatched by any other red grape. The
Finger Lakes is the most promising region for Pinot Noir,
with its well-drained shale and limestone soils and relatively
cool climate, which prevents this early ripening vine from
maturing too quickly, preserving its delicate structure. The
fascinating, meaningful and delicious wines that derive from
this region show that Pinot truly belongs there. The best
New York Pinot Noirs are intense, voluptuous wines with vibrant
fruit and a subtle oak influence, which can tell us something
about the earth and the spirit of the place where they were
born.
MERLOT
It's impossible to understand the utter seductiveness of Merlot until
you experience it, and once you do, it's hard not to fall in love. An
extremely outgoing wine, Merlot eagerly reveals its soul, inspiring
confessions, insights and revelations. The best Merlots are supple,
velvety-textured wines that explode with wild and effusive plum and
cherry fruit. Each sip lights up the heart and sparks the imagination.
In bordeaux-style blends, it is the kinder, gentler influence that softens
the tannins of its robust cousin, Cabernet Sauvignon. Merlot is perhaps
most famous for being the primary grape in the great wines of St-Emilion
and Pomerol in Bordeaux, including Chateau Petrus, the world's most
expensive wine. In the warm, sunny, maritime climate of Long Island
and many areas of the Finger Lakes it can produce robust, lusty wines
with a plump, lush fruitiness that are just impossible to resist.
CABERNET SAUVIGNON
If Pinot Noir is the Queen, Cabernet Sauvignon is the King of red grape
varieties. In New York, particularly on Long Island, it produces wines
with incredible depth, passion and sheer power. It can be juicy and
forthcoming, bursting with ripe fruit and a rich earthiness that evolves
on the palate and lingers long after the first sip, displaying the kind
of savage, erotic vitality that makes it stand out among red wines.
Cabernet not only tends to have a strong personality, but also a distinctive
character, since it conveys with incredible detail the subtle individuality
and distinct signature of the vineyard site where it is grown. It is
a wine that clamors for attention, sensual to the core, yet capable
of displaying a fascinating range of temperaments. The North Fork of
Long Island, with its temperate climate, long growing season and the
warm ocean breezes off the Atlantic, may be the ideal site for this
late-ripening grape, where it can achieve both thought-provoking complexity
and flashes of visionary brilliance.
CABERNET FRANC
Cabernet Franc sings to you the moment you take the first sip, arousing
a sense of awe and joy at the fact such a seemingly humble grape, long
overshadowed by its more familiar relative, Cabernet Sauvignon, can
produce such a dynamic, vibrant red wine that speaks to us on a much
deeper level than the raw sensual and hedonistic pleasure it affords.
New York winemakers have realized its potential and are now making some
exceptional red wines from the variety. They are densely concentrated
with ripe fruit flavors and wild herbs and minerals nuances. There can
be no doubt that Cabernet Franc has achieved unprecedented popularity
in the past decade, and seems poised to take center stage among a sleek
new generation of New York reds from Long Island, the Finger Lakes,
and the Hudson River Valley. It is a grape variety with a rich cultural
legacy, responsible for many of the great wines of St-Emilion in Bordeaux,
as well as the best reds of the middle Loire Valley.
BORDEAUX-STYLE BLENDS
Winemakers have long recognized that blending red grape varieties
can be a valuable tool in enhancing the quality and character
of their wines. The art of blending different grape varieties
to create a more full-bodied, complex wine has been practiced
in Bordeaux for centuries. Traditionally, Bordeaux reds are
made from a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and
Merlot grapes, sometimes with lesser amounts of Malbec and
Petit Verdot. The two Cabernets provide the backbone, character
and longevity to the blend, while Merlot offers intense, lush
fruit and its own trademark softness and suppleness. All of
these Bordeaux varieties thrive in New York, where they are
used in special proprietary blends that generally represent
the producer's finest and most cellar-worthy red - a wine
not only built to last, but truly expressive of its regional
origin.
LATE HARVEST WINES
Are you ready for a taste of the nectar of the gods? A new breed of
late harvest wines from New York is redefining the experience of ecstasy.
These are wines that demand to be listened to, wines designed for meditation
and contemplation. Botrytis cinerea, the so-called "noble rot"
responsible for the distinctive character of the great sweet wines of
Sauternes, Germany, and Hungary, has found a new home in the vineyards
of Long Island, the Hudson Valley and the Finger Lakes. Select grapes
are left to hang on the vine late into the season; the grapes become
dried and shriveled, highly concentrated with sugar, and affected by
Botrytis. They are harvested late in the season, pressed and fermented,
eventually producing a sweet, luscious, honeyed nectar-like wine. Ice
wine is made from ripe grapes deliberately left on the vine until late
November or December. The grapes are picked by hand when frozen, carried
to the winery and pressed immediately. The viscous, sugar-concentrated
juice is fermented to produce a sweet, elegant and powerfully evocative
libation that gains wisdom and potency with age.
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