A few years ago at the annual show Albany journalists put
on to amuse state politicians, a running gag involved an
underworked state employee killing mosquitoes with a spray
bottle filled with New York wine. Now comes word from researchers
at Harvard Medical School and a Pennsylvania research laboratory
that a chemical abundant in red wine made from grapes grown
in states like New York may be a potent weapon in ensuring
a long, healthy life.
New York winemakers and sellers, who have worked for more than a decade to market their products
not as cheap quenchers to pour by the gallon but as lovingly,
locally grown vintages worth savoring, think this could
be their big chance to change perceptions.
"People think of New York wine being
cheap, sweet and kosher," said Susan Wine (yes, that
is her real name), who is co-owner of the Vintage New York,
which sells only New York wines at its two Manhattan shops.
"We have made a lot of progress in changing that already."
The news about the health-promoting chemical,
she said, could attract thousands of health-conscious wine
drinkers to New York wines.
Red-wine sales in general have received
a boost in recent years from studies that point to a a finding
that French people, who eat rich food laden with butter
and cream considered bad for the heart, live as long as
anyone else. Some scientists have said that red wine deserves
credit.
Researchers at the Harvard Medical School
announced last week at a conference in a small village in
the Swiss Alps that they had found a class of chemicals
that they believe may make people live longer by activating
an ancient survival reflex that mimics the effects of a
very low-calorie diet. The finding was also published on
Sunday in the journal Nature.
One of the chemicals, resveratrol, is found
in red wines, especially those grown in cool climates like
that of New York State's. "We have a short growing
season from last frost in spring to first frost in fall,"
said James Trezise, president of the New York Wine Grape Foundation. "The nights get colder and days are
nice and warm. That kind of climate is great for developing
flavors in the grapes. Apparently that is also good for
developing resveratrol."

George Naumburg, 85, inspects
grapes at his North Salem Winery. New York winemakers and
sellers have tried to market their products not as cheap
quenchers but as lovingly, locally grown vintages worth
savoring.
Plants create the chemical under - conditions
of stress, like lack of nutrients and fungal infection.
The chemicals have not been tested on humans, and are a
long way from being used for medical purposes. But many
in New York's wine industry embraced the new findings.
Bill Wagner, a Finger Lakes vintner who has been making
wine on the eastern shore of Seneca Lake for 25 years, said
drinking a glass of his Wagner Vineyard pinot noir every
night with dinner was one of his secrets to robust health
at 76.
"I feel great," Mr. Wagner said
in a telephone interview from his office at the vineyard.
"Of course, I exercise and eat right, too. But the
wine helps, no question."
Mr. Wagner participated in a study several
years ago with researchers from Cornell University that
measured resveratrol in wines at his vineyard. The study
prompted him to print up thousands of neck tags to let buyers
know the potential health benefits of red wine.
"The federal government approved it,
but then three months down the road they rescinded it and
took it away," Mr. Wagner said. "At that time,
you could not mention health on the label." He is ready
to try again, however. "There is quite a lot of water
over the dam since then," Mr. Wagner said. "If
there is new research, maybe we should give it another try."