It's a few hours before the ball drops and -- oops! -- you're out of Champagne. This year, it's also Sunday, so liquor stores are closed. With an exception: Vintage New York, 482 Broome Street (Wooster Street), which is owned by a New York State winery and is thus permitted to stay open on Sundays (noon to 7 p.m.). Its sparkling wines are not quite like fine French Champagne, but some are worthy of your best crystal flutes.

Chateau Frank Blanc de Blancs 1995 from the Finger Lakes ($25.99), a blend of pinot noir and chardonnay, is pale and crisp but not austere, thanks to a softness that warms the finish. A hint of bitterness pleasantly beckons another sip. Wolffer Cuvee 1996, a sparkling brut from Long Island ($28.99) is mostly chardonnay and has a yeastier, full-bodied richness, for an elegant toast. A less costly alternative is nonvintage Macari Methode Champenoise from Long Island ($18.99); it's all chardonnay, light-bodied and clean-tasting. All are produced in small quantities, which accounts for their prices. Since Vintage is a winery outlet, these and other New York wines are available for tasting.